brunosdream

I’ve been wanting to try making an herb gelato just to see what it tastes like. Most people think of herbs in terms of savory dishes, but in Italy for instance, herb flavored gelatos are common, especially during the summer months. My good friend and blogging partner Duane, is moving soon so I decided to throw a little farewell shindig.This was a perfect opportunity for me to whip out the trusty ice cream machine and churn up a batch of basil gelato. I decided to mix in some toasted pine nuts to add some texture and flavor that would match up well w/ the basil. The results were surprisingly good… good enough to deserve a post on the Zin!! I hope you enjoy this recipe as much as I did!

Ingredients

1/2 cup toasted pine nuts

1 quart half + half

1 cup sugar

8 egg yolks

2 1/2 ounces fresh basil (chopped)

Procedure

1) In medium saucepan heat half + half and chopped basil gently to a simmer, then turn off heat

2) Pour half + half mixture into food processor and blend until basil is finely ground, then strain through a fine mesh sieve to remove the basil

3) In medium size mixing bowl combine egg yolks and sugar and beat together until pale yellow

4) Beat 2 tablespoons of the warm half + half into the egg mixture (do this slowly to avoid curdling the eggs), then beat in the remaining half + half little by little

5) Place bowl over a pot of simmering water and cook over a gentle heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture coats the back of a spoon (do not let temperature exceed 170 degrees or mixture will start to curdle)

6) Cool in an ice bath

7) Chill mixture in fridge for at least 4 hours

8) Churn in ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions, adding the toasted pine nuts at the halfway point of the churning process

9) Transfer gelato to a 2 qt plastic container, cover top w/ parchment paper cut to size (this will reduce air exposure and prevent ice crystals from forming on the surface of gelato), and freeze until firm

Yield: Approx. 1 ½ quarts

Safe travels and best of luck in your new city Duane.

Bruno

I was going to post this recipe last week but my life

(and power) was knocked out of sync by the huge storm

that rolled through St. Louis on July 19th! My power has

finally been restored and I’m in the process of getting back

to my routine as well as repairing all the storm damage to

my house. I count my blessings because the tree that fell

through my fence could have fallen on me as I was chasing

my patio umbrella around the yard!! Next time, the umbrella

dies alone….

 

On to the recipe…

This recipe is so good, easy and refreshing it would be a

pity not to share it, especially while berry season is at its

peak! This is from my mom’s recipe archives. She called it

tutti fruitti, but when I took it to the Bastille Day party I went

to, these English people were calling it a trifle. To me, it was

more than a trifle, plus I like the name tutti fruitti better!!

I didn’t realize it until I was at my friend’s house, but if you

categorize the ladyfingers and creme as white, this dessert

encompassed all the colors of the French flag. Perfect to

celebrate Bastille Day!

Call it what you like, it will always be tutti fruitti to me!!

My view…

and Duane’s eye view…

Ingredients

for creme anglaise:

1 quart half and half

1 cup sugar

8 egg yolks

1 vanilla bean – split, seeds scraped

remaining ingredients:

1 pint strawberries – quartered

1 pint raspberries

1 pint blackberries

1 pint blueberries

24 ladyfingers

Procedure

for creme:

1) In medium saucepan, heat half + half, vanilla beanand seeds gently to a simmer, then turn off heat.

2) In medium size mixing bowl combine egg yolks

and sugar and beat together until pale yellow.

3) Remove vanilla bean then beat 2 tablespoons of

the warm half + half into the egg mixture (do this

slowly to avoid curdling the eggs), then beat in the

remaining half + half little by little.

4) Place bowl over a pot of simmering water and cook over

a gentle heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture coats

the back of a spoon (do not let temperature exceed 170

degrees or mixture will start to curdle).

5) Cool in an ice bath.

Assemblage

1) Set aside a small amount of each berry for garnishing top

of dessert (see photo).

2) In a large, clear glass bowl, layer berries and

ladyfingers, starting w/ one of your berry choices,

then a layer of ladyfingers, then berries (alternating

color and choice of berries between layers), then ladyfingers,

then berries until you are almost to the top of your bowl.

Save enough room at the top for a final layer of ladyfingers,

then garnish the top w/ a row of each type of berry used.

3) Cover dessert and creme w/ plastic wrap and place in fridge.

4) One hour before serving, pour creme anglaise into dessert,

cover, and return to fridge.

5) When it’s dessert time, remove from fridge, uncover and

have at it!

Vive la Tutti Fruitti and Bon Appetit!!

Bruno

What could be more refreshing than a nice bowl of

ice cream (or gelato) on a hot summer day? Well,

actually I can think of a few things… but I digress.

Anyhow, here’s what I have to offer: Almond gelato

w/ crumbled Amaretti cookies and dark chocolate

chunks, and bing cherry madeleines. Grab your

spoon and dig in!!

I had to search in 5 different specialty food stores

for key ingredients, finally finding the Amaretti

cookies in an Italian food store on The Hill.

Surprisingly, they didn’t carry amarena cherries

which I had originally wanted to use for my

madeleines.

Gelato

8 egg yolks

1 cup sugar

1 quart half + half

6 tablespoons almond extract

1.5 oz crumbled Amaretti cookies

1.5 oz bittersweet chocolate (chopped)

Procedure

1) In medium saucepan heat half + half and almond

extract gently to a simmer, then turn off heat

2) In medium size mixing bowl combine egg yolks

and sugar and beat together until pale yellow

3) Beat 2 tablespoons of the warm half + half into

the egg mixture (do this slowly to avoid curdling the

eggs), then beat in the remaining half + half little by little

4) Place bowl over a pot of simmering water and cook over

a gentle heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture coats

the back of a spoon (do not let temperature exceed 170

degrees or mixture will start to curdle)

5) Cool in an ice bath

6) Chill mixture in fridge for at least 4 hours

7) Churn in ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s

instructions, adding the crumbled Amaretti and chopped

chocolate towards the end of churning

8) Tranfer gelato to a 2 qt plastic container, cover top w/

parchment paper cut to size (this will reduce air exposure

and prevent ice crystals from forming on the surface of

gelato), and freeze until firm

Yield: Approx. 1 ½ quarts

Madeleines (recipe adapted from Gourmet Oct. 2004)

12  tablespoons unsalted butter, plus 2 tablespoons for

greasing molds

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

4 large eggs

1 1/4 cups granulated sugar

1/4 cup dried bing cherries

1/4 cup cognac

2 pinches salt

** special equipment: a madeleine pan w/

2 3/4 by 1 3/4 inch molds

Procedure

1) Soak cherries overnight in cognac then simmer

over low heat for 5 minutes and let cool

2) Remove cherries from remaining liquid and chop

finely

3) Sift together flour, baking powder and 2 pinches of salt

4) Whisk together sugar and eggs until well combined

5) Add flour mixture and whisk until just combined, then stir

in butter, chopped cherries and remaining cherry liquid until

just incorporated

6) Chill batter for 1 hour

7) Preheat oven to 400 degrees

8) Brush molds w/ butter

9) Spoon batter into molds, filling them about two thirds full

10) Bake 5 minutes, reduce heat to 350 degrees and bake

another 5 minutes until springy to the touch and edges

are nicely browned

11) Loosen from molds, turn out onto a rack and let cool

12) Let molds cool and repeat process until batter runs out

Yield: Approx. 70 madeleines

Notes: Madeleines are best when eaten the same day.

If you don’t want to bake all the madeleines the same

day, you can refrigerate the batter and finish baking the

following day.

Now chill out and enjoy your hot summer afternoon!!

Bruno

 

 

This is a great recipe, but be prepared to spend

4 1/2 hours in the kitchen, including clean-up,

just for the mole!!

 

Mole

** recipe adapted from The Mole Page

 

Ingredients:

6 C chicken stock (I used veggie stock)

**5 chilhuacle negro chiles, or substitute ancho chiles,

seeded, stemmed

**5 guajillo chiles, or substitute dried New Mex. chiles,

seeded, stemmed

**4 pasilla chiles, seeded, stemmed

**4 mulatto chiles, or use ancho, seeded, stemmed

**2 chipotle chiles, seeded, stemmed

1 medium white onion, cut in quarters

6 cloves garlic

2 Tbs whole almonds

2 Tbs shelled, skinned peanuts (I used hazelnuts)

2-4 Tbs lard (I used canola oil)

*2 tsp raisins (I pureed w/ some stock, but next time

will add to onion, garlic, plantain then puree)

1 slice bread (I used Challa)

1 small ripe plantain, or use a small banana

1/2 C sesame seeds

2 pecan halves (I didn?t use any)

1″ Mexican cinnamon stick (I used a regular cinnamon stick)

2 whole peppercorns

2 whole cloves

2 medium tomatoes, chopped

5 fresh tomatillos, chopped

1/2 tsp dried oregano

1/2 tsp dried thyme

1 bar, or to taste of Ibarra chocolate,

or other Mexican chocolate (I used 5 ounces of bittersweet

chocolate from Trader Joe’s, chopped)

1 avocado leaf, omit or use bay leaf (I used a bay leaf)

salt to taste

Procedure:

1. Toast the chiles, or fry them in lard, until just darkened

— don’t let them burn. Place in bowl, cover with hot water

until soft, about 30 min. (I softened my dried chiles in the

veggie stock)

2. Puree chiles in blender, adding the soaking water

if needed to form a paste.

3. Roast the garlic and onion in the same pan until slightly

brown, then remove.

4. Toast the almonds and peanuts slightly, remove.

5. Toast the chile seeds until dark but don’t let burn.

6. Heat 2 Tbs lard in skillet and fry raisins until plump,

remove and drain.

7. Fry bread until brown, remove.

8. Fry plantains until brown, remove.

9. Add more lard if needed, and fry sesame seeds at low

heat until slightly brown, stirring often.

10. Add pecans, brown and remove and drain.

11. Toast the cinnamon, peppercorns and cloves lightly

in a dry pan. Let cool, and grind in a molcajete or grinder.

12. In a blender or processor puree nuts, sesame seeds,

bread and pecans; use small batches if needed.

13. Add onions, garlic, plantains and puree. Remove,

then puree tomatoes and tomatillos.

14. Heat the remaining lard in a large heavy pot and fry

the chile paste until dry, but don’t let it burn.

15. Add tomato puree and fry until liquid is gone.

16. Add ground spices, nut/bread mixture, pureed onion

mixture, oregano and thyme.

17. Heat to a simmer while stirring constantly, add chocolate.

18. Toast the avocado leaf over open flame briefly, then

add to mixture.

19. Slowly add reserved chicken stock to mixture until

mixture will just coat a spoon.

20. Salt to taste.

Yield: approx. 60 fluid ounces

*The recipe didn’t specify what to do w/ the raisins –

see note under raisins for my instructions

**I used the mole blend that I purchased from Tierra

Vegetables which contained at least 4 different

types of dried chiles

Beef

 

Ingredients:

2 lbs sirloin steak

1 pack of 8 inch bamboo skewers (at least 25)

1 small bag of charcoal

Procedure:

1. Soak skewers in warm water for at least 1 hour

2. Cut beef across grain into 1/4 inch wide slices

3. Remove skewers from water

4. Thread beef onto skewers

5. Place in deep dish and coat w/ mole on both sides, 

cover and place in fridge for 2 hours

6. Remove beef from fridge

7. Place charcoal in grill and light

8. When coals are fully lit, spread them out

9. Grill beef for 2 minutes on each side

Yield: Approx. 25 sticks

Place finished product on platter w/ a bowl of

mole for dipping, gather some friends, crack open a 

bottle of your favorite full-bodied red wine and enjoy

the fruits of your labor!

 

Cheers…

 

Bruno

 

In order to commemorate my 50th birthday here’s a

special post on one of my favorite foods… bread!

    I love bread!! I don’t know how people can do that

no carb diet or why they would intentionally deprive

themselves of something so good. In fact, I don’t have

much faith in any of those fad diets. I believe eating

whatever you want in moderation (including carbs)

is the best diet. I’ve read several studies that state your

body needs carbs to function properly. That’s my excuse

and I’m sticking w/ it! Enough said, let’s get on w/ a great

recipe to satisfy your carb cravings!!

*From Bon Appetit May 1999

Fougasse Aux Herbes de Provence (makes 2 loaves)

Ingredients:

1 1/2 cups warm water

1 teaspoon dry yeast

4 cups unbleached all purpose flour

2 tablespoons dried herbes de Provence

2 teaspoons fine sea salt

4 tablespoons olive oil

Yellow cornmeal

    Pour 1 1/2 cups warm water into large bowl; sprinkle

yeast over. Let stand for about 10 minutes. Stir in 1 cup

flour, 1 tablespoon herbes de Provence and sea salt, then

2 tablespoons olive oil until well blended. Mix in enough

flour, 1 cup at a time, to form thick and slightly sticky

dough.

    Turn dough out onto lightly floured work surface; knead

until smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes. Form into ball.

Oil large bowl, add dough; turn to coat. Cover w/ plastic

wrap, then towel. Let rise in warm draft-free area until

doubled, about 1 hour.

    Position 1 rack in center and 1 rack in top third of oven

and preheat to 450 degrees F. Sprinkle 2 baking sheets

generously w/ cornmeal. Punch dough down. Turn out onto

floured surface; divide in half. Press out each half into

11×8 inch irregular shaped oval. Transfer to prepared

baking sheets. Brush each w/ remaining olive oil, then

sprinkle w/ the rest of the herbes de Provence.

Using a sharp knife, make several 2 inch long cuts in

each oval (do not cut through edges), spacing cuts evenly

apart and cutting through dough to work surface. Pull apart

at cuts to create openings. Cover loosely w/ plastic;

let rise in warm draft-free area until slightly puffed (about

20 minutes).

    Place dough in oven. Immediately pour about 1/4

cup water onto bottom of oven, creating steam. Bake

breads until golden on top and slightly crisp on bottom,

switching sheets between racks and turning front of each

sheet to back of oven halfway through baking (about 9

minutes). Bake for another 9 minutes. Transfer sheets to

racks; cool for 10 minutes. Serve warm or at room

temperature.

 

Et voila, the finished product! Enjoy this delicious bread

and remember… share w/ your best friends!!

A Votre Sante’,

Bruno

Here’s my whole wheat bread recipe

(tweaked from my mom’s pizza dough recipe).

Before…

 

After!

Mix 1 rounded tablespoon of yeast and ¼ cup warm water

in a large mixing bowl, add 1 teaspoon honey then let stand

for 3 to 4 minutes.

Then add to bowl: ¼ cup olive oil and ¼ stick melted butter,

1 ¼ cups warm water, 2 teaspoons salt

(make sure salt is dissolved before adding flour).

In a separate bowl , mix 3 ½ cups flour (2 cups whole wheat, 1 ½ all purpose)

and ½ cup seven grain mix, then add to yeast mixture –

mix in up to ½ cup more all purpose flour if dough is too moist.

Knead dough thoroughly, form it into a ball

and return it to the bowl (dust bottom of bowl w/ flour first),

dust top w/ flour, cover bowl w/ plastic or moist towel

and let dough rise for 1 hour (in a warm spot in your kitchen).

Split dough ball in half, roll each half into a tight ball,

place on corn meal dusted surface, cover w/ plastic bag

and let rise for ½ hour.

Meanwhile, preheat oven and pizza stone to 425 degrees.

When dough balls are ready, dock them w/ scissors

(this will allow steam to escape from dough to prevent blistering),

place on stone and pour 2 ounces of water onto bottom

of oven to delay crust formation so the bread can expand rapidly

and evenly. Turn bread after 20 minutes for even baking,

reduce temperature to 350 degrees and bake for another

18 to 20 minutes.

Remove from oven and let cool on pie rack.

Voila… you now have some yummy bread for your next

breakfast or dinner. Remember to share w/ friends!

Bon Appetit!!

Bruno

A friend of mine recently gave me an old issue of Bon Appetit dedicated entirely to the cooking of Provence

. While paging through it I came across a recipe for lavender sorbet. It sounded very intriguing so I decided to give it a try. The recipe was simple and the results were impressive! See for yourself…

Recipe:

8 cups water

3 ½ cups sugar

4 tablespoons dried lavender blossoms

1 teaspoon lemon juice

Bring first 3 ingredients to a boil in a heavy medium saucepan over high heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Boil without stirring until reduced by 1/3 volume (approx. 12 minutes). Strain syrup into medium bowl.

Chill syrup until very cold (about 4 hours). Transfer to ice cream maker. Add lemon juice; process according to manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer to covered container; freeze until firm.

Makes approx. 2 quarts

** I served the sorbet in wine goblets and garnished it w/ lemon zest and lavender blossoms.

Cheers!

Bruno

Buche de Noel w/ Expresso Buttercream Icing   

   

 

Ingredients 

For cake:

6 eggs

1 ¼ cups sugar

¾ cup flour

¾ cup cornstarch

 

For icing:

2 ¼ cups sugar

1 ½ cups expresso
coffee

4 egg yolks

3 ½ sticks butter

 

Icing is made by beating egg yolks until light yellow in
color. Next, cook sugar and coffee
together over medium high heat to a temperature of 234 degrees. Then very
slowly add sugar/coffee mixture to the yolks while beating at low speed until
mixture is cold (if you go too fast, the yolks will curdle). Butter is softened
at room temperature before it is cut into pieces and beaten into the cold
egg/syrup mixture. Continue beating at low speed until mixture is very firm.
Set aside in a cool spot.

 

Cake batter is made by adding sugar to beaten whole eggs
then continue beating mixture over very low heat until it doubles in size
(approx. 15 minutes). The flour and cornstarch are sifted together and gently
folded into the mixture. The mixture is then poured into a well buttered half
sheet pan and baked at 350 degrees for 10 minutes. Remove cake from pan while
still warm and roll it up in a kitchen towel that has been sprinkled w/ sugar.
Set aside to cool (a warm cake will melt the icing).

 

When cool, unroll the cake and spread ¼ inch layer of icing
on the inside. Reroll the cake then cut off ends diagonally, each piece being
about 1 by 3 inches. Place the cake roll on a cutting board wrapped in foil
(the foiled cutting board was my serving platter, but feel free to use the
platter of your choice) then spread a ¼ inch layer of icing on the exterior of
the cake roll. The diagonal pieces are then placed on the top of the roll and
spread w/ icing to resemble stubs of cut-off branches. Tines of a fork are
drawn through the icing to simulate the texture of bark; the ends are marked w/
circles to resemble tree growth rings. Place the cake in a cool spot or
refrigerate until it’s time to serve. One hour prior to service, remove cake
from fridge and decorate cutting board w/ holly branches.

 

Chef’s notes:

 

The recipe from the magazine article was not very
specific regarding certain aspects of the preparation so I’m adding some info
for your benefit. For example, when making the icing, it is important to beat
the mixture until very firm, otherwise it will not be properly emulsified and will “break”. Also, when beating the cake
batter over heat I used a double boiler to prevent sticking and burning.
 

When removing the cake from the sheet pan be particularly
careful to unstick it from the pan so it doesn’t get broken. (I cracked the
cake at this stage and it made the remaining steps much more challenging!!).
Make sure your kitchen towel is generously sprinkled w/ sugar and gently roll
up the warm cake. I applied a little too much pressure while rolling which
caused the cake to stick to the towel and crack even more when unrolled!
Believe me, you don’t want your cake cracked because icing it, then rerolling
will be a pain in the a_ _!! Fortunately, through the miracles of icing, I was
able to cover up all my mistakes!
 

For a first effort, I think the final product turned out
fairly nice. I wish my mom and dad were around to sample it. I did have a group
of friends over for cake and champagne, and by the looks of it, they seemed
pretty satisfied!